This photo was taken just after the finish and tells the story of how difficult this session was and what it does to the body. What it doesn't show is the abundant joy and happiness that is being experienced. Expressions do give a hint most of the time, only because we have been schooled to think that a smile is happy and a gurn is sad. Having emptied the tank completely and had the best session of my life, the face is one of content, one that is seeking rest and one that knows it has to go on when feeling like this in August.
UTS 100km by UTMB is a phenomenal course that will grow into 'thee beast' it deserves to be known as. Initially started by Apex Events, they achieved a deal with UTMB in 2022 to place it as the only UK based World Series event. Having run the 50km event last year I knew immediately I wanted to have a crack at the 100km. Not only to challenge the senses but with a view to see if I could return to UTMB in 2024. As it turns out I'm heading there in 2023 to compete within a team of 3 at PTL by UTMB. So UTS had greater significance than just racing round for personal gratification . Whilst focused on the here and now, I wanted to walk away with UTS acting as a stepping stone to PTL. With a sun that was raging and getting rebounded off the mountain rock, everyone had to manage a lot more than the terrain and endurance.
We arrived in glorious weather the day before. Helen and Teresa were doing the 25km and buzzing in their own way, soaking it all up. Registration and the start are located at the Welsh Slate Mine Museum, set at the base of the quarries across the lake from Llanberis Village. The 100 mile race set off at 1pm. Last year they had to abandon overnight and recover the runners off the route due to heavy rainfall. This time, it was the heat and wet feet in the bogs that would be of concern. 100 miles with sodden feet and baked skin is a drain on available energy. The 100km distance was going to be no different and whilst I was prepared for these elements, my moment under the sun still reared its ugly head.
The course was 64+ miles/ 103 km, presenting 22,000 ft/ 6700m of climb. The terrain is a mix of stony, rocky track and trail, flowing into lower sections of peaty bogs, forest trails, open valley floors. For many sections the trails just follow the natural line that sweeps along high ridges or drop through natural gulleys presenting adrenalin rush descents, or conversely ludicrous steep sections of ascent. There is not a moment of respite other than a couple of moments such as the Roman Road gravel track that drops off from Pen Y Pass to the checkpoint at the base of the Watkins Path.
As part of all previous prep for big endurance challenges I put together a schedule based on ambition, rational acceptance of current fitness, expectation and respect for the environment I am stepping over. I have attached the 'forecast' sheets. My ambition was sub 18 hours. My fitness going into the race as far as speed endurance goes was 18+ hours. The expectation was 19-20 hours. With respect for the terrain it was also 19-20 hours. The weather is not in our control, and though forecasts were calling it mild, the day before everyone knew it was going to be hot.
I have run quite a few long distance sessions without a watch and this one was going to be the same. It is the sort of session where averages and pace can serve as distraction, either encouraging to speed up or forcing to slow down. It isn't for everyone, but with my experience in perceived exertion I was confident and able to pace within a frame of 'firm but fair' throughout the session. Especially when the terrain is lumpy, bumpy and uneven underfoot, emersing the brain and body into the moment works for my enjoyment levels. As it turns out, I was pleased to come into the 51km checkpoint of Capel Curig just 5 mins under the prediction time of 8:20. Spirits were high as I entered this checkpoint, and I afforded myself a bit of time in the hall to reorg, change socks and top, and as planned, added an extra litre of fluid from my drop bag, to carry in the pack for the monstrous efforts ahead.
Philippa is a client of Madmule PT, and was also signed up for the 100km. It was nice to travel into the start together, thanks to Helen getting up at 04:00 also. We timed it so we got dropped, walked into the starting pen and within 10 minutes the start gun was fired. No point in standing around with such a long day ahead!
The race quickly presses through the quiet streets of Llanberis and lifts onto the Llanberis path, a 3 mile climb to Snowdon for the warm up. The moon was setting directly above the summit and helped to settle the nerves and pace. Looking up at such beauty put everything back to normal, calmed the breathing, settled the nerves and raised a smile. Everyone found their pace and within a mile into the climb we were all stretched out. This is now about endurance. It gets quiet after 2 miles into the climb, as it ramps up, all around are clack clack of poles, a rock being displaced, a lengthy breath out, early hikers coming down from sunrise chatting lightly with a faint grin wondering what the heck is going on. Everyone at peace.
I know what is to come on the other side of this initial climb. The Pyg Track is going to present the first agility test of the day. Not just the trail. The walkers coming up the other way. A very popular route coming up from the East side of Snowdon.
It had potential to be carnage. The pass required patience, constant vigilance and calm.
It is quick yet abrupt. It is rock hopping, yet curvy. It is steep at it's core and narrow with many a bottleneck. Add tens of bodies travelling up, slowly, some hesitantly and it's fair to say the group I was flowing with were lucky to pass without incident. I can only imagine what it was like for the 1200+ runners heading down on the 50km course. With walkers heading up and down for the day, it was one of the only factors of this race that requires fullest attention by the organisers into 2024. Snowdon attracts a lot of visitors and although it has at least 5 ways up, plus the train, releasing hundreds of runners at peak times will inevitably increase risk. Either to a runner making detour to avoid collision, or a hiker being struck on narrow sections. I felt for the walkers here. The procession of runners is relentless and making progress up the mountain will have faltered considerably.
The rocks can be sharp, jagged and point out from all angles. I managed to catch an edge as I dropped into the first CP at Pen Y Pass. These Altra Lone Peaks had done well to make it to the start line. This race was one step too far, but they made it to the end. They lasted the remaining 58 miles, albeit there was extra suction as the bogs were traversed.
By the first check point it was clear that the weather was going to be the defining factor of success or failure for us all... and it is only 06:45.
As with all proceeding CP's, I had my bottles ready, prepared with electrolyte tabs or energy powder, the plan simple, get in and get out of all of them as quick as possible between here and the halfway point.
The Northern traverse of the Glyders and across to Carnedd Llewellyn was nothing short of spectacular, breathtaking and technically demanding. The first point I took the cap off and drenched myself in a flowing stream was just before the picture was taken above. The joy to be cold wet at 09:00 in a mountain pass was exciting and from here on as planned, promised to get into every one, even if it meant getting off the trail for a few seconds. With sun factor 50 on, it was the rivers being used to cool my skin and the sun cream that achieved a successful session.
There were some gnarly drops and stiff climbs, however it was the Ridgeline and ascent of Pen yr Helgi Du that highlighted how remote, rugged and testing this first half was. The picture doesn't do it justice, but thankfully there was a long 2 mile grassy descent to the Cp from there.
Halfway, coming into Capel Curig, we can receive our drop bags. I had a change of T and socks. I knew that they were going to get soaked in bog again, but there's something comforting to refresh and it worked. The climb up Siabod is steady, firm but fair. Having fresh socks on added to the calm required to start the second half with confidence and vigour.
The second summit of snowdon is where I think where the race grabs its motto. 'SAVAGE BEYOND BELIEF'. Having left the Watkins path to switch up onto the ridgeway pass that connects to the Ryduu path, there were now no more rivers, streams or tiny trickles breaking out of the rock. It was very hot, especially after the sun had heated the rock up. This was the first time I broke the flow of climbing and took considered breaks for 10-20 secs at a time. Managing the heat came down to pouring some of my drink over my head and neck. As I got higher the air was slightly cooler. I know the damage had been done. Eating was forced and as I summited, the air temp was good. However, all the way down the Rangers Path, I knew the skin was red hot.
Entering the penultimate CP I knew I had basic symptoms of heat stroke - thanks to a vigilant marshal, we managed the situation properly. First, cooled the skin down slowly with a water soaked buff. Next, came the chills, uncontrollable shivers . Now, to put on all the warm kit I had. Next was the need to vomit. I didn't but I had a bloody good go. Finally, eat. Got the coke down, warm sugary tea, some oranges, biscuits, sandwich for on the go... and start walking. I'll be chasing this chap down and thanking him personally. The best example of what all endurance race marshals have to be - knowledge, personal experience and empathetic.
As I walked out of the CP onwards to the penultimate 2000ft climb, I was in full gear, Long sleeves, long bottoms, windproof, hood up. As I started to feel good temp on the climb the kit got stripped and I was on my way. It wasn't pretty, but it worked and by the time I started to descend to the final CP I was buzzing and catching some of my peers. Job done. Every cloud will pass. The blue sky remains.
Seeing Helen and Teresa at the final CP was a huge boost. They were brilliant. I emptied the bag of rubbish, ditched some food I didn't need and only topped up what fluid I needed for this final leg of 10 miles and got on my way. Their version will be that I was manic, wired and not making sense. My version, I was totally in control.
Stuck in my memory is the string of lights from my fellow 100km competitors strung out down the Rangers Path, knowing they had broken the crux of the session as they descended to the Penultimate checkpoint.
As the final miles went by, I wasn't emotional, stayed focused on getting in, avoiding the temptation to look at the clock. I had set a goal of midnight when I left the final checkpoint. Having had the mini scare of over heating I was just happy to be approaching the finish in good order, still running, pain free and growing in the sense of what I had accomplished this day. Entering the funnel I heard Helen and the gang cheering me in. Thank you Helen for being a wonderful partner and my best friend, having cracked the 25k during the day, she still managed to get to the CP, and the finish, having also dropped us off at 4:45am.
Well done Phillipa who took on the 100k. Making it to the 52km mark but just getting timed out by a few minutes. I can not stress how big a deal this was. Accepting how slow going the terrain would be, she dedicated a lot of training and time to adapting, up-skilling and getting used to the hardest sections. They are tight deadlines. The UTMB works off a score index related to how many metres of elevation per mile, how far and how hard the ground is. To get into the ballot for UTMb the index has to score higher then 400+. My finishing time was 19 hours with a cut off of 32 hours, yet still only score 610 on the index, compared to the winner scoring 890. It is difficult to move fast on good tracks under the cut offs, let alone on this type of ground. That's the UTMB model and although it comes under a bit of fire, it is a known.
Well done Teresa, long term friend and Madmule client. Smashed the 25k, strong, graceful and with gusto.
Hats off to Sara and Mark G. Each confronted by their own hurdles, each getting on with the situation at hand with composure and fight. Beautiful people both with so much heart for training and life.
Never sure where this blog was going. I hope you have absorbed the challenge that this race presents. If you're thinking of doing it, give it your upmost attention. To detail, prep, training and health. The mountains are fickle. It is a playground to be investigated. It is also unapologetic, incapable of feeling our feelings, and should we underestimate this environment whilst playing it will take us further away from joy than is imagineable. There is no suffering here. For we were here through choice. Only fools suffer.
Onto PTL for me, with Andrew Findley and David Clement. Team Wolfpack. A grand challenge to roll onto after UTS.
And you?
Best in training, health and sport.
Rich
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